Lawton
5 posts
Joined: 22/09/2004 08:23:02
Location: Romford United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Anyone knows how to fit battery cable lead??? was on fire and melted!!!
BATTERY CABLE LEAD 134"LONG PRE ENGAGED STARTER 1985-91
Part No. AUU1089
http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=34228
is this hard to do? coz mines just went dead...here's the story
the + terminal side's have a gormet sitting on the boot floor's hole..which holds the cable in the middle of it...somehow seems the gormet has gone and the cable start scartching the body...plus the battery itself moves forth and back..hence cable's skin got pirced through.. as you know mini is neg. earthed....so it made contact and the cable like spot weled to the body and start building up heat...luckly it was a small fire.. the things that happened during that..1. alternator belt screamed for a few times,smell of smoke..of course.., headlights went dim and bright a few times..
1/4 of the back seat burnt away (pulled out form the car in time..no further damage to the interior..) battery still alive.. but the massive positve cable is melted ...like those cheese strings you get from tescos... so have a good check at your cable at the back... and a fire extingusher is a good choice to have it in car at all times
Posted: Dec 18, 2006 02:35 AM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Replacing the cable shouldn't be too difficult, if you don't mind lying underneath your mini in the cold and wet for a couple of hours, but I would have thought that if the cable isn't too badly damaged you could repair it by wrapping some really good insulating tape round the melted/damaged part, replace the grommet, and it'll last for years.
Posted: Dec 18, 2006 01:09 PM
pickme
672 posts
Joined: 08/09/2004 23:10:14
Location: Chippenham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
It's pretty straight forward but a bit messy sometimes. The cable is held in place with a number of P clips under the body than can be a bit gunked up over time. Other than that it's a straight run from the battery to the starter motor or solenoid depending on the route (I've seen both and never been sure if one was right or wrong).
A powder fire extinguisher is a good choice in any mini. Get the biggest one you can find and fit it in easy reach. On the cross member in front of the passenger seat is a common place.
Posted: Dec 18, 2006 01:26 PM
taffy1967
1783 posts
Joined: 27/09/2006 18:58:07
Location: Rhondda-Cynon-Taff United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
And also get your battery secured via the correct clamp too. If it's moving about then your terminals could come loose and the potential of cutting out on the motorway whilst over-taking a lorry isn't fun!
Posted: Dec 18, 2006 03:49 PM
thanks for everyone! will get the new cable plus plenty of the p clips (and wd40 i guess would be a good compliment lol)
Posted: Dec 19, 2006 01:06 AM
Fitzgerald
31 posts
Joined: 11/10/2006 11:33:50
Location: Hertfordshire United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Your right about the flamebeaters.
Anyone know a better price?
£17
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mini-In-Car-Fire-Extinguisher-Choice-of-Colours-New_W0QQitemZ4650366024QQihZ002QQcategoryZ43122QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
Posted: Dec 19, 2006 10:14 AM
wrachael01
12 posts
Joined: 01/12/2007 15:28:18
Location: walsall United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
mini died
i was driving the mini but my positive battery lead keeps popping of, yesterday it popped of and the accelerator cable snapped. put on new cable and was running fine untill i drove it 2 yds down the road battery lead came of again put it back on now it wont start, it tries to fire but dont any ideas anybody as it is my daily runner thanks
Posted: May 26, 2008 05:07 PM
Patrick Campbell
13 posts
Joined: 24/10/2017 12:28:13
Location: Walton-on-Thames United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Engine start on bench
The solenoid is a cylinder sitting above the starter motor connected to the starter end plate by two bolts on the left end. At the right end there are four terminals. A terminal at the back nearest the starter motor with a short lead to the motor. The main live at the front with the nut for fixing the battery cable. To the left is a medium sized spade type terminal and to the right a small spade type terminal. Do you need to make any connection to either of these two spade type terminals.
Posted: Sep 05, 2018 06:47 PM
Hi Tim thank you for your reply.
I made all the connections as stated in my opening post. I initially used jump leads for the main connections, battery to block and starter motor to touching battery no response whatsoever. I then used 30amp cooker cable and still got no reaction from the solenoid or starter motor. The only time I got any reaction was when I connected the lead from the (+) side of the coil to the (+) side of the battery as I touched the wire to the terminal I got a spark. What am I doing wrong? I have watched a couple of videos on youtube and they have no problems engine fires up instantly.
Regards Paddy
Posted: Sep 06, 2018 03:10 PM
Norman Tooke
1 posts
Joined: 05/05/2018 20:26:48
Location: Milton Keynes United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
A+ ADU3825MS Question Starting
I have a Metro HLE 1275 A+ engine (39,000 miles running without any issues). I have fitted an ADU3825MS electronic distributor replacing a Duceilier points dizzy, replaced the ballasted coil with a GCL216 non-ballasted coil, supplied the coil with an ignition switched 12v feed. Timed the engine to factory timing, it runs beautifully, fires up immediately and drives fine. The problem is that the starter on first turning the key turns slowly and then speeds up to normal speed. It doesn't happen every time though, the longer its left the more likely it is to turn slowly. I have, in turn, cleaned all the connections to clean shiny metal on battery cables, earth point and starter, had the battery tested by a battery supplier - its good, replaced the solenoid, replaced the starter. makes no difference. If I remove the LT wire to the coil the starter spins the engine at the normal speed. Which leads me to think its timing related. Retarding the ignition has helped but not totally solved the problem. Just wondered if anyone else has had a similar problem. Thanks
Posted: Dec 17, 2019 10:14 AM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
need help! she wont start!!
Hi All!, I need help. I have a 1967 mini, with a 998 motor in it. We have had the carbie's cleaned, fresh battery, oil, cleaned the spark plugs, fresh petrol. I discovered a kill switch (which is now turned off). We have replaced the hoses around the fuel fliter, and checked that it is sparking. BUT IT WON'T START!
She'll turn over, then die. Does any one have any idea on what to do next?? I have had it for a year now. The previous owner had it sitting for 3 years not running. I can hear the fuel pump working but something is stopping it from going :(
She spins over - you therefore have a good battery and the engine earth is sound/clean.
Is the spark getting to the plugs? Reset the points to 14-16thou, gap the plugs to 25thou and check the timing (between 4 and 10BTDC depending on model - look at the handbook) Best way to tell is put on rubber gloves and hold the plug lead a tiny amount away from the plug and see if it is jumping across - best doen in a dark garage.
If it isn't electrics then it's fuel as you suspect. this is either lack of delivery or lack of suction to draw it into the cylinders. The latter will need a compression test while the plugs are out to see what they're like. In good condition you should be looking at 140-190 psi per cylinder with no significant independant variations. as far as fueling is concerned you said "carbies" - twin carbs should be setup initially as you would a single carb and then join them together via the link bar at the end...so. disconnect the throttle and choke links bars, screw the jet tube fully upwards and then back it off 3 turns (18 flats) for a start point. reconnect the throttle link bar using a 20thou feeler under each step to get them balanced. now loosen the choke cable and do up the choke link bar in the same way as the throttle. reconnect the choke cable allowing 1/4inch free play before it activates the throttle lever cam screw -adjust both screws to match. now take off the air filter and topup the dash pots with light oil (3-in-1, if that's what it's called in your country).
give it a try.....and if that doesn't work remove the float chamber lids from both carbs, top them up with fresh petrol from a jar, disconnect the fule pump power supply lead and try it again. if that doesn't work then suspect the jet tubes may be gummed up. if it runs for about a minute and drains the float chambers then the problem is somewhere in the delivery to the carb. Is the pump wired for the correct earth of the vehicle (1967 should be postive earth unless changed) Is the pump delivering enough fuel? As the rubber gets old it swells up and distorts so you could only be delivering a trickle which is used up quickly by the engine when on choke. Either way the old fuel direct into the carb (or easy start down the intake) will show up if it's electrical of fuelling.
let us know how you get on.
Posted: Nov 02, 2009 02:26 PM
tony greatrex
7 posts
Joined: 08/01/2013 23:19:05
Location: nr.selby United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Engine won't turn over
Hi,
IF IT WILL START FROM JUMP LEADS TRY CHECKING THE EARTH CABLE ON THE BATTERY AND ENGINE IT MAY BE EARTHING THROUGH THE JUMP LEADS
Posted: Apr 25, 2014 12:37 PM
starter motor problems
There's a little relay on your car located under the bonnet on the driver's side bulkhead brace which controls the starter (I believe). It might be worth swapping it for another.
It's also worth checking that there is 12volts at the energizer wire when the key is turned. I can't remember what colour it is but it should be fairly obvious. The only other connection to the starter is the big fat battery cable (which should carry 12volts at all times). You said a wire has fallen off - can you get a photo?
Failing that, you can take the starter off and test it (using jump leads from the battery) if you know what you're doing. Just be careful not to short the jump leads and start a fire!
Posted: Nov 03, 2011 11:01 AM
Ben1400
Joined: 23/07/2005 21:58:54
Location: Plymouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Re
It sounds to be when you make a large demand of the electrics it drops the voltage to everywhere. Without stating the obvious this is a dodgy/high resistance connection fault. Check & clean up the engine to body earth lead. These are normally found in the clutch area and go between a clutch cover bolt and subframe mounting bolt. Having said that it could be anywhere between the engine & body. They are sometimes a normal battery cable size black cable or can be braided. You could also check the output of the alternator/state of the battery if you can get hold of a multimeter? Follow the workshop manual if you have a meter. Check the fuse box for clean fuses/tight clean connections and the battery connections. keep an eye open for any green verdigris growing on connections, anywhere! It is really a process of elimination, Good Luck! Hope This Helps Barry
Posted: Jan 17, 2012 12:12 PM
Peter
Joined: 27/01/2005 13:07:22
Location: Colchester United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Bigger battery - bigger alternator
As Stuart suggests, the battery starts the engine, the alternator charges it back up again. I read somewhere that it takes 20 minutes to put back into a battery what starting the engine from cold takes out. I have tried alternators upto, and including, a 90A one from a RangeRover, and batteries from the Rover 200 turbodiesel. These two components are the largest I have found so far that will fit in the ordinary position/battery box. That said, neither have much to do with getting the car to start. A fuel injected Mini should start first turn of the key, so could get away with the smallest battery you can find. The problems in the Mini design are many, but in brief: The earth lead from the battery to the body in the boot - it is a poor quality lead, bolted into the boot floor, which then goes rusty. The -ve connection then has to pass through the bodyshell, and via another earth lead to the engine block, which the starter motor and alternator are bolted to. Any rust or corrosion on any of these connections and the 12v you had back at the battery will be 11 or 10 or 9v by the time you get to the starter motor. The positive lead from the battery to the front of the car - provided it is bolted to the battery tightly, with clean battery terminals, is no problem, but then it attaches to the starter solenoid behind the front grille, which, again, is open to the elements and can rust or corrode. From here a PATHETIC little wire goes up to the alternator terminals and just pushes on. When I replaced by alternator with the 90A one, I replaced this wire with two wires, each one made up from new heavy duty cable suitable for carrying 100A. That way, even if one was corroded or poor, the other would be ok. With this, I had 12.8v on the battery and 12.61v on the starter motor terminal. If it is any consolation, the early Ford Focus and Mk.3 Mondeo also had thse problems, as the negative lead was bolted down to the bodywork on the inner wing, and the paint was not removed first - the end result was that the MW radio could not be listened to because of all the electrical noise throughout the wiring loom! Just one thing - I know the phrase has been coined Classic Mini, as opposed to New Mini, but I was led to believe that something classic has to be 25 years old, something vintage 50 years old, and something veteran 75 years old. Can we not just stick to Mini and BMW M-series?
Posted: Jan 27, 2005 01:50 PM
David Bond
2 posts
Joined: 12/10/2019 17:11:37
Location: Leeds United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Starter not working just a smalll click - 1994 Mini Mayfair
today I have: (1) checked battery connections (2) installed a new battery negative earth lead in the boot (3 )Added a braided earth cable from the crankcase to the inner wing (4) installed a new engine steady bar with a new bracket and fitted a new earth cable from the drivers side of the engine to the bulkhead and.......drum roll..........it still wont start and just a small click from the engine bay.
Any ideas ?
Posted: Feb 14, 2020 02:14 PM
Re:
Somerford Minis stock new earth leads and their screws: -
http://www.somerford-mini.co.uk/pdfs/Catalogues/Electrical-Inst/02-Battery-Cables.pdf
http://www.somerford-mini.co.uk/pdfs/Catalogues/Price-List-Order/01-Catalogue-Price-List.pdf
When did you last replace/tighten the fan belt? If it's slipping a bit then it can make a big difference and not charge the battery sufficiently.
I'd give the battery a full charge and then see how it behaves. If you see a difference in the morning, then I'd consider getting the alternator overhauled by a good auto electricians (far cheaper than fitting an exchange unit).
Or consider fitting an uprated alternator: -
Posted: Nov 17, 2008 05:10 PM
Lights and Horn do not work and engine wont stay running
Hi, You say it starts but won't run. I'm guessing you mean that it spins over on the starter but won't fire but lets go to basics and work up from there.
Battery in boot has thick black cable under car to starter solenoid on clutch housing. This should be connected to the same bolt down terminal as the brown wires that run to the alternator and ignition switch in the column. A second thick black cable runs from the other bolt down terminal to the starter motor. There is a small tab that should have a white/red cable on it - this runs to the ignition switch. When you turn the switch it connects the live brown supply to the white/red cable and energises the solenoid to activate the starter motor. If the engine spins over then this lots should be ok.
You then have the low tension ignition circuit that controls the spark from the coil. On the "-ve" tab for the coil should be a white/black thin wire that runs to the side of the distributor and connects to the points wire coming through a small rubber grommet. On the "+ve" side of the coil is a thin white wire that goes back to fuse #1 in the fuse box, which in turn is linked to the white cable on the ignition switch and is the power feed to the low tension circuit. Check fuse #1 for corrosion or just plain missing. This fuse also controls the hazards and brake lights.
On the high tension circuit you have the coil - it has a single thick cable that goes to the middle pole of the distributor cap. From there you have 4 leads, one to each spark plug. Yoo can find other postings on this website where the firing order is listed or you can locate images on google to check yours hasn't been messed around.
Earthing strap is normally between the clutch housing and inner righthand wing and looks like a piece of wire rope with electrical tags on each end - because that's basically what it is but made of tinned brass.
Try these and let us know how it goes.
Posted: Apr 03, 2014 09:38 AM
C. Barron
332 posts
Joined: 04/05/2006 21:28:31
Location: Mid Calder United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Alternator problem?
The altenator is not charging the battery sufficiently. It will charge if no lights on etc, but as soon as lights go on, the charge to the battery drops away (+ve lead disconnected and running from altennator charge).
Any suggestions
The altenator is new as is the battery
Check the engine earth. You need a stout wire between the engine block and the bulkhead......in days of old it was common for the choke or heater cables to become the engine earth once the original strap had frayed and broken.
If you can find a good place to fit a temporary jumplead you could fit on between some bare metal on the engine, like the alternator housing, and something clean and earthed on the body....you can choose that for yourself !
If you have an earth fault you will see your lights brighten when you rev the engine when you have heavy load accessories switched on, like the fan blower and the heated rear screen.
You can also pop a voltmeter in between the block and body to check for earth while the engine is running and the high load electric are switched on...ideally there should be no voltage difference between the bloack and the body.
Chris
Posted: Nov 28, 2006 10:24 PM
jam2004
3 posts
Joined: 12/09/2004 10:14:52
Location: Rotherham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Mini Mayfair 998cc
[i]PLEASE EMAIL OR CALL ME AS I AM NOT ON THIS FORUM MUCH.[/i] Due to a change of job I am now offering my mini up for sale. It has taken me nearly 2 years to complete but has to go. I won’t be leaving the mini scene for long though. So here goes: [b]Interior:[/b] Original rover black paint Charcoal dashboard Mini sport deluxe black carpet set Cobra classic Front Bucket Seats with tailored subframes Cobra classic rear matching seat 10” Mountenoy steering wheel & boss kit Black door cards Chrome door accessories Chrome momo ball gearknob Polished alloy handbrake grip Black gear and handbrake gaiter Chrome rear view mirror Rear shelf black carpet Black rear arch covering Securon front inertia belts Securon rear 3 point static belts Custom boot liner in black Chrome air vent covers Smoked black perspex sunvisors [b]Exterior:[/b] Mini sport 4 pot 7.9 non-vented full disk brake setup 10x5 GB alloys Yokohama A032R aqua tyres Locking wheel nuts Mk1 morris/cooper slat grille Mk1 morris/cooper moustache Halogen headlamp conversion Genuine stainless steel rover bumpers front and rear Group 2 arches Tex stainless wing mirrors Chrome boot hinges Chrome door and boot locks Stainless locking filler cap Aston filler cap Chrome wipers Chrome jet sprays Clear front indicators Clear side indicators Smoked rear lenses Door seals Rear opening window seals Rear windscreen seal Chrome windscreen insert [b]Engine:[/b] Standard manual 998cc with under 32,000 miles (genuine) Mini spares 70A alternator Twin air horns K&N element air filter AAA carb needle Chrome radiator cap [b]ICE & Security[/b]: Toad A51S alarm system including immobiliser 2 pair of JBL 6x9 speakers 6 channel JBL amp mounted in boot Pioneer CD/MP3 headunit 1.2 Farad power capacity Halfords calcium battery Professional cabling throughout [b]Recent Service:[/b] Pair of genuine rover rubber cones on front New rear shoes New front grooved disks New performance front pads Performance HT leads Radiator top hose Oil and filter change Air filter change [b]Here are the pictures... [url]http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=9669921&uid=4614268&members=1[/url][/b] As you can see this mini has been cared for in the best possible way. All the parts above were purchased new and this has cost me far in expense of £6000. The paint is the paint it came with 18/19 years ago when it left the factory and has been cared for all its life. It’s never had a panel changed in its life either. The body is 99.9% rust free apart from a small amount of surface rust on the gutter about the size of a 50 pence piece. It is MOTed until Feb/March 2007 and taxed until August/September 2006. Insurance is cheap aswell… cost me £495 for a year 3rd party (fire & theft) in my first year of motoring with no no-claims bonus aged 18. I would prefer to sell this car whole at a price of £3,500 but I will also sell it for £3,000 with out the audio, which I feel is a fair price for all the time and money spent. ------------------------------ Contact details removed ------------------------------ Thanks for your time, Jam2004 (Tom).
Posted: Apr 06, 2006 02:45 PM